Jean-Claude Ramonet, Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains 2021

The Ramonet family's Chassagne-Montrachet domaine works roughly 17 ha of old, low-yielding vines. Its whites peak with tiny grand cru holdings: Le Montrachet (0.26 ha, the only cuvée in all-new oak), Bâtard-Montrachet (0.64 ha), Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet (0.45 ha) and Chevalier-Montrachet (0.09 ha), backed by Chassagne premiers crus such as Ruchottes, Morgeot and Caillerets. Unsettled juice starts fermenting in tank and finishes in cask, with modest new oak, long lees ageing and little stirring; young whites can show a minty edge and need time. About 6.8 ha of red vines, including Clos Saint-Jean, Morgeot and Clos de la Boudriotte, give reds that Jasper Morris finds unusually Côte de Nuits-like in fruit, Boudriotte excepted.

Appellation

Chassagne-Montrachet (also Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin)

Owner

Ramonet family (Noël and Jean-Claude Ramonet)

Vineyards

About 17 ha; Montrachet 0.26 ha, Bâtard 0.64 ha, Bienvenues 0.45 ha, Chevalier 0.09 ha; 6.79 ha of red vines

Wines

Montrachet; Bâtard-Montrachet; Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet; Chevalier-Montrachet; Chassagne 1ers Ruchottes, Morgeot, Caillerets, Clos Saint-Jean, Boudriotte

Style

Lees-aged, moderately oaked white Burgundy needing time; Côte de Nuits-like fruit in the reds (Jasper Morris)

Sources: grandcruwijnen.nl, winewithseth.com